Posts on Emma on the move

Less is more

Sun, 11 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

The longer I travel, the lighter I want my luggage to be. In the beginning, my main concern was to have a bike that was as light and manoeuvrable as possible.

Hüttenabend

Sat, 10 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

It’s windy. So windy that my jacket is flapping in the wind.

Teeth chattering

Fri, 09 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Today was just cold and wet. That pretty much sums up the day.

Milestones

Thu, 08 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

So today down the valley. The route I feared yesterday because of the federal road section. I just want to get it over with today.

Two days?

Wed, 07 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I wake up very early, at around 4:30 a.m., after far too little sleep. The wind, or rather my concern about it, has kept me awake. At least it has blown my tent dry.

Picking up underpants

Tue, 06 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

My tyre slips, my foot can’t get out of the clickie fast enough and I brake with my hands and arms. My first fall of the trip, in the first five minutes of the day.

Phone calls

Mon, 05 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I spend six hours on phone calls today. Actually, a little by accident.

Berry

Tue, 06 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Today was a real pleasure. I was only looking forward to the day to a limited extent because a lot of rain had been forecast.

Finding my rhythm

Sat, 03 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I don’t know yet what I want from my journey. Maybe that’s what’s bothering me a little today.

Reunion

Fri, 02 Aug 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Finally back on my bike! It’s been a whole three weeks since I last sat on it.

Back

Sat, 13 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I’m travelling from sunny Oslo to rainy Gothenburg.

Sun in my face

Fri, 12 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

It’s always amazing how much time is taken up by looking after the house, doing the washing, cooking and cleaning.

Detox

Thu, 11 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

What do I actually need my mobile phone for? I ask myself this question

A short tour

Wed, 10 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I sleep in until 9. It feels good, my exhaustion from yesterday seems to have gone.

The mountain's calling

Tue, 09 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I wake up early, just after 4am. That’s good;

Supermarkets

Mon, 08 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

First thing in the morning, as in the evening: go swimming.

Wilderness or something

Sun, 07 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

The water splashes against the stone beach, where it meets the boats it sounds a little different, sharper.

Somewhere

Sat, 06 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I am now a member of the Norwegian Hiking Association.

What now?

Fri, 05 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

What should I do next? Should I even continue at all? My need for community is so great that I am even considering ending my bike trip and finding a job with people. Or should I recharge my batteries at a festival? I want to figure that out today.

My more tangible goal today: to buy a rain jacket. In the morning, I tested under the shower to make sure that my current jacket had really reached the end of its life. It has. In addition to a few holes that I had overlooked before my departure, the seams are no longer in the best shape. I don’t want to get stuck in the Norwegian rain. Finding a suitable jacket for me will be a challenge. Two large bike shops (at opposite ends of the city) have nothing in my size. My shoulders are too broad for the largest women’s sizes, my hips too broad for the largest men’s sizes. A bit annoying, but also ridiculous. Norwegians aren’t that small. I happen to pass Odlo and find a jacket that is just right and affordable. I chat with the French salesman about cycling routes in Norway.

Rainy Oslo

Thu, 04 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I surrender to the rain. I forgot the hood that goes with the jacket at home, but maybe it doesn’t matter – the rest of the jacket isn’t waterproof anymore either. It’s getting cold in the long run.

Despite the rain, I walk around Oslo a little. At least the city is not overcrowded. I like it a lot; I think many of the modern buildings are well done. I buy new gas for my stove. Actually, I also wanted to buy a foldable coffee filter, but I could not pinch myself for the (converted) 40 €.

Norwegian Dreams

Wed, 03 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I get up very early. My sleeping place is uncomfortable enough that I don’t turn over again. I had soaked my oats in the evening, so I don’t even have to cook them. Within an hour everything is packed and a route for the day is planned. It will be along the big roads again, but mostly on cycle paths.

Yesterday I crossed the border. The Norwegians overtake more respectfully, leaving me 1-2 metres of space, and I don’t feel as if I’m being pushed into the ditch by the next lorry. In the middle of the day I see deer and even a fawn in the distance.

Civilization

Tue, 02 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

The warm chicken broth (vegan) with the ramen noodles is the highlight of the day. Salt, flavour enhancers, fat – what more could you want from life?

Today was a similarly frustrating day to yesterday. As soon as I leave my lonely campsite with its vast quantities of blueberries, I find myself wandering across many large roads. If the path does not lead across the road, it often turns out to be impassable or barely passable.

Sun

Mon, 01 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

The first thing I do in the morning is jump into the lake. With the golden morning sun shining above it, I can’t resist. It’s cool, but very pleasant.

After just one day of rain and grey, I’m already enjoying the strong sun that dries my tent. Daniel is already awake and offers me coffee. I pick some fresh blueberries for my porridge and share some with Daniel.

Today I leave the European Divide Trail to make my way to Norway. I quickly question this decision when I get stuck between cars, lorries and the roadside on a federal road. I am grateful for my new hi-vis jacket, thanks to this over-fashionable accessory at least nobody can claim to have overlooked me.

Inertia with rain

Sun, 30 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

In the morning, I only leave my tent when it is absolutely necessary. I listen to the raindrops pattering on my tent and spend as much of my morning as possible inside. I cook my porridge (keeping as far away as possible from the heat-sensitive tent walls), catch up on a few blog entries and laboriously start packing my bags. At some point I hear Nick, who has swum across the lake to me, calling out for me to come to them.

Companions

Sat, 29 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

The last few weeks have been lonely, despite the many wonderful encounters with people. It tires me to have to make so many decisions alone every day, to be solely responsible for my safety, my food, my joy.

I assume that northern Sweden is even more remote, with hundreds of kilometres of nothing but forest. The idea of following the European Divide Trail into this solitude doesn’t appeal to me at the moment.

Flat batteries

Fri, 28 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I wake up at 4 a.m. I didn’t sleep well because of all the mosquito bites and period pains. At least I have plenty of time to find the ferry.

It’s worth it. The signs on the ferry only show where bicycles are not allowed, but none show where they are actually supposed to go. So I follow the car signs and have breakfast in front of the barrier. We’re not allowed in yet.

Weighing up the heavy track

Thu, 27 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

The frame of my bike digs into my shoulder. It slips a little. I tense up to keep it and myself stable. My legs are shaking. My heart is racing. I’ve already climbed an estimated 20 metres in altitude, and I still have 10 metres to go. I can’t turn back. If I don’t keep myself and the bike under control, we’ll fall. Most of the bags are off, but my bike still weighs at least 15 kg.

Pyt

Wed, 26 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Apparently the Danish equivalent of “Oh, well”. I’m practising this attitude today.

I only practice “Pyt” because of the heat. When the asphalt stores it and gives it back to me, 26 degrees are unbearable for me.

“Pyt” is the only right answer when my tyre is flat and I try to patch the tubeless tyre. Pyt, when the temporary solution doesn’t hold, the tool is not the right one and I’m sewing the casing with needle and thread at the roadside.

Opening hours sprints

Tue, 25 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

I’m still going strong until a quarter to three. Then I stop. I realise that the shop where I want to pick up my e-reader only opens until 7 p.m. That means I have four hours if I want to pick it up today. I still have 80 km and a few hundred metres of altitude to go, so I really get pedalling. It’s fun to fly through the countryside, but I’m only sad once, when I don’t stop for a lake, and once for a kiosk. I have music in my ears, which has accompanied me for years during sports, the rhythm drives me forward.

Danish heath

Mon, 24 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 15: 24.06.24

Sometimes the only way to get around is to hop. That’s how I feel right now. Since I arrived at my sleeping place, I’ve been bubbling over with joy and happiness.

Now I’m going for a walk in this heath landscape. Unfortunately, I can’t pronounce the Danish word for it, but I really like it. The woman who filled my bottles for me in the early evening (and gave me a free lemonade) advised me to use this heath as a place to sleep.

To Denmark

Sun, 23 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 15: 23.06.24

I made it to the sea and to Denmark today. I’m travelling very slowly at the moment. I suspect that it’s because of the changed geometry since the saddle adjustment and I’ll be taking it back tomorrow. Or maybe I lost a lot of fitness during my break in Hamburg.

I turned over in my sleeping bag several times today, completely relaxed. But the drizzle that started then quickly threw me out of the sleeping bag. My hosts gave me a delicious coffee and breakfast. We said a heartfelt goodbye to each other, and they even thanked me for my visit.

Starting new

Sat, 22 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 15: 22.06.24

Finally on the road again. In the morning, I collected more material, did some last-minute laptop work and said goodbye to Marei. Marei had noticed how much I liked eating the veggie meatballs (my northern German hosts had a good laugh about that word, so I have to use it anyway) from her fridge, so she gave me a bag of them to take with me. Very good bike protein snack. Then a last hamburger and a bun.

Hamburch

Fri, 21 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Days 11-14: 18.06.-21.06.24, a few kilometres and metres

When I stop, time flies. Five full days in Hamburg, which I felt had been well spent, but then quickly passed.

Context-free snapshot: over a coffee and a Franzbrötchen (elbgold!) I let myself be captivated by Martin Suter. I was given The Dark Side of the Moon as a present in the Lüneburg Heath. It’s a book that touched me, that I took with me on my travels, but that also leaves a lot to be categorised.

At Marei's

Mon, 17 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 10: 17 June 2024, 0 km, 0 metres

Today at Marei’s in Wandsbek, Hamburg. We go for a walk together, cook together, look at the second-hand goods store Stilbruch. Marei and I are very familiar with each other, it’s a relaxed relationship.

Saying yes

Sun, 16 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 9: 16 June 2024, 105 km, 550 metres of ascent

I was awake at 4am today. I imagine that I will arrive in Hamburg in the morning if I leave soon. Then I realise that I am still tired and allow myself to sleep in. It is 8am when I wake up again. As soon as I open my eyes, a couple calls out to me: “Breakfast?”. They are walking their four dogs – and I say yes.

On the European Divide Trail

Sat, 15 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 8: 15 June 2024, 90 km, 230 hm

The first day on the European Divide Trail. This is a route that Andy Cox put together and that I want to follow to the Norwegian-Russian border. The trail runs right behind Martina’s house and I don’t have to ride 50 metres to find it.

I know that I don’t have to ride very far today – I can’t manage 200 km all the way to Hamburg to Marei in one day, and over two days they are then very generously divided. So I set off from Hannover at around 12 o’clock, saying a heartfelt goodbye to Martina and Mo. Now the road gets really exciting. Andy Cox has put together a really varied route, along paths that are just about passable with my bike – but it’s hard work. For the first time, I have to fight mosquitoes and only stop as briefly as necessary. The Arabic sweets that Mo’s mother brought with her crumble quickly during the journey, but they still taste delicious.

At Mo's

Fri, 14 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 7: 7km, ?hm

Today is a day of rest, or Monday. I only manage to cover an estimated 7 km because I (unsuccessfully) go in search of a bicycle shop to have my damaged crank set replaced.

Today I mainly get to know Mo’s family. With Mo’s Doma (short for German granny, he was allowed to study and work in her house during Corona) we cook Arabic-delicious. Doma and I are grateful for Mo’s cooking skills. Then I get to know his sister and mother, they bring wonderful Arabic sweets (the Maamoul with cardamom awaken an unknown faith). Such wonderful people have shaped him. Mo grew up in Damascus. There is a lot of beauty in the way he combines the two cultures. His German is characterised by the poetic nature of Arabic, he paints pictures with words. When Germany wins the opening game of the European Championship, he is full of wild euphoria. We drive through the city centre in a Smart car, honking our horns. We eat another delicious kebab (supposedly the best in Lower Saxony) and move on to gentle conversations.

To Mo's

Thu, 13 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 6: 13 June 2024, 124 km, 320 metres

After a flat share breakfast at Lena’s, I was able to start a relatively relaxed day. Today my main goal was to reach Mo. An easy and unspectacular route.

I was welcomed by Mo and his German family Martina (he calls her aunt, in Arabic), and they immediately asked me what I needed, and I was well looked after. Even my bike got a shower for the first time. I knew that I would feel comfortable with Mo and would enjoy getting to know him better. But Martina is also a special person; she really has a genuine interest and keeps asking us both tricky questions. She asked me what happiness (for me) is. Even though we couldn’t answer this question completely, I still found a little bit of it.

Rennsteig

Wed, 12 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 5: 12.06.2024, 163km, 1510hm

I’m awake at 4.30am. I start by repairing my trousers, patching them with glove fabric. After tea and breakfast, I set off in the first rays of sunshine, which don’t really warm me up yet.

I decide where I’m going to sleep and plan my route towards Göttingen. It looks hilly, but doable. I’m still underestimating it at this point.

At the bakery, I’m proud when I ask for bread rolls instead of buns for the first time, even though I find the word difficult to say. I then outed myself as Bavarian when I asked for the plum cake. However it is labelled, it is a very welcome and tasty refreshment.

German-german border

Tue, 11 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 4: 11.06.2024, 117 km, 1460 m elevation gain

Today I travelled back and forth between Thuringia and Bavaria, with so much history of a divided Germany hanging in the beautiful green belt. Across the border, the houses look different, the infrastructure is worse, there are fewer pubs, I am greeted less often. The landscape is exciting, the hills are fun and the paths are more varied - instead of tarmac and simple forest tracks, I have to fight my way up and down more challenging paths for the first time. However, some roadworks force me onto a main road, which I get over as quickly as possible. I enjoy the rough roads all the more - I really feel at home on my bike.

Arriving

Mon, 10 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 3: 10.06.2024, 146km, 443hm

The last few days have felt rushed, I’ve been cycling more for a goal than for the journey. Today I also had the feeling that I had to catch up. Thanks to bike problems, I only cycled “just under” 160km yesterday instead of 200km and only set off at midday today after a temporary repair. There’s a halfway good reason for my time pressure: I want to catch my dear friend Mo in Hanover, so I’d better get there before Thursday. At the same time, I’m probably putting myself under more stress than necessary and completely forgetting that I’m travelling. I hardly allow myself any breaks, and in the few breaks I do take, I squat by the side of the road to fill up on food as quickly as possible.

Breakdown

Sun, 09 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 2: 09.06.2024, 157km, 772hm

An almost explosive crack from my drive train. I stop pedalling and look down between my legs. My chainring has come off.

I started very early, I was already on my bike before 6:00. I enjoy riding through the villages on Sunday mornings. It’s so quiet, so unspoilt. I don’t have to worry about cars. The first 50 kilometres are done by 8:15.

„Gute Laune“ instead of Blue(s) of London

Sat, 08 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Day 1: 08.06.2024, 83km, 333m elevation gain

My shoes click into my pedals, left, right. Right? Right? The right one takes a bit of fiddling before I find it. Click. I’m rolling already. I can feel the bike translate me pushing into my pedals into meters on the smooth road. I see my mom and brother shrink behind me, my dad pedaling beside me.